Montana Fruit Trees · Cold Hardiness Calculator
MFTC Modified Cold Hardiness CalculatorBETA
Tell us where the trees are going and what your ground is like. We'll give you the coldest night you ought to plan for, and then show you everything we grow that has come through it.
How we zone our plants: every last plant on our site is zoned to the minimum extreme temperature it has actually survived down to. Not an average, and not a number borrowed off somebody's plant tag.
1 · Where are the trees going?
A street address works best. A town and state will get you close, but not as close.
2 · Does cold air settle on your ground?
This moves the number more than you'd think. Weather stations get put in open, well drained spots on purpose, so they never sit in a frost pocket. You're the only one who knows your ground.
What you can grow here
How we got to that number
The weather stations we pulled
| Station | Elevation | Distance | Winters | Average low | 1-in-30-year low | Weight |
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Stations way off your elevation, or ones with short records, count for less. A station sitting 500 feet below you next to a lake isn't describing your winters. The greyed out rows barely factored in.
Why we did it this way
Why we don't just use the USDA map
We find the USDA hardiness map limited in a few important ways.
It shows you the average coldest night of the year, averaged out over thirty years. But a plant doesn't die to an average. It dies to the one bad night in thirty. Across the country that gap runs 15 to 34°F, which is two to three whole zones, and it always runs the wrong direction. Your USDA zone makes your winters look easier than they really are.
The other problem is that it's just plain hard to match a plant up to a zone number. Zones are broad labels, and a label doesn't tell you as much as a temperature does.
How we rate plant hardiness (known survival extremes)
We rate every plant by its known survival extreme, the coldest temperature it's actually been seen to come through. Every last plant on our site is zoned this way, down to the minimum extreme temperature it has survived. Balaton tart cherry is probably good to about −35°F. Evan's Bali will take −40 to −45°F. That's a number you can do something with.
That number isn't the plant's floor. It's as far as anybody has tested it. Trader mulberry has lived long term through −40°F, but nobody knows yet what it does at −50°F, because it hasn't been tried there long enough. So when a variety's known extreme is a few degrees warmer than your number, that isn't proof it'll die. It just hasn't been proven there yet. We list those separately as worth a try, and whether you push it is your call.
That comes from real winters, not from a model. Mostly from our own two growing sites in Missoula and Florence, Montana, and from fruit growing friends up north that we trust. The late Rod McIver in Kalispell, Bob Purvis in Homedale, Tom McCamant at Forbidden Fruit in Paradise, Ed Schultz in Gallatin Gateway, Steve Masterman up in Fairbanks, Bernie Nikolai in Edmonton. Plus years of reports from customers. Where we don't have a local record we lean on published nursery and university numbers.
We're not the only ones doing it this way. Bob Purvis, Steve Masterman of Alaska Fruit Trees, and others rate hardiness right in line with how we do it. Plenty of folks out there don't, probably because their numbers aren't based on what the plant has survived down to. That's usually why you'll see a variety listed warmer somewhere else than we list it.
Don't mix these numbers with a standard zone rating
The zone this page gives you is figured on extremes. Most catalog and plant tag ratings aren't. A lot of them aren't based on what the plant has survived down to at all.
So if you take the zone off this page and then go shopping against regular USDA based ratings, the two scales won't line up and you'll wind up planting trees that aren't hardy enough for where you are. That's the whole thing we're trying to help you avoid.
Use the temperature from this page and match it up against what a plant has actually been proven to survive. The list up above already does that part for you.
Cold isn't the only thing that kills trees in winter
This page works out one thing, the coldest night you should plan for. That's only one piece of cold hardiness. Hardiness is super complicated, and there are a lot of other variables that can cause cold loss. That number only holds up when the winter plays fair: the trees had time to harden off in the fall, they stayed good and frozen once winter set in, and nothing woke them up early. Plenty of winters don't play fair. Here are some of the big ones this tool doesn't cover:
How long the deep freeze lasts. One night at −40°F and a month of it are not the same thing to a tree. This page only looks at the single coldest night, not how long the cold hangs on.
Early fall freezes. On October 24th, 2020 Missoula went from mild fall weather to −10 to −20°F almost overnight. It wiped out a lot of trees that were rated plenty hardy on paper, because they hadn't gone dormant yet. No hardiness number, ours or USDA's, covers that.
The temperatures leading up to it, and false springs. A warm spell in the middle of winter or a false spring can wake a tree up, and then a much milder freeze does the damage. Anchorage only got down to −23°F last winter, and trees rated to zone 2 still got hurt or killed. Varieties with a long chill requirement tend to stay asleep through those warm spells better. Low and mid chill varieties satisfy their chill early, start waking up, and get hammered. If your winters swing above freezing and then drop hard, lean toward the long chill stuff.
How much the tree grew the season before. A tree that pushed a lot of late, soft growth goes into winter less ready than one that was grown "hard" and wrapped up its growth early.
Carbon storage. How much energy the tree has stored up going into winter matters. A stressed tree, or one that lost leaves early, has less in the tank.
Soils. Wet, heavy or poorly drained ground is harder on roots over winter than soil that drains well.
Wind. Drying winter wind can do real damage on its own, especially on open, exposed sites.
Snow cover. Good snow insulates roots and low growth. Bare, frozen ground doesn't.
How fast the cold comes on. A slow slide into winter gives trees time to toughen up. A sudden plunge doesn't.
Two places with the same number can still lose different plants. Bismarck and Fargo come out close here, and Bismarck is known to be harder on plants. Some mix of the things above is doing work this number can't see.
And that's not the whole list. There are even more factors out there, and some of them nobody fully understands yet. The good news is that picking varieties rated a zone or two colder than you really need still stacks the odds in your favor. They come through the bad winters more often, even when they take some damage.
How this works and what data we pull
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We find your address on the map. It gets turned into a latitude and longitude. Nothing gets stored and nothing gets sent to us. We also look up the official 2023 USDA zone for your ZIP code so you can see the two side by side.Source: US Census Bureau geocoder. USDA 2023 Plant Hardiness Zone Map, looked up by ZIP
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We pull the long record weather stations near you. Usually the closest eight, each one with at least ten winters on file, often thirty or more. For each one we grab the single coldest night of every winter (November through March) going back to the winter of 1995-96. A winter only counts if December, January and February are all on file. Stations with holes in their winter records were making some places look warmer on average and colder at the extreme than they really are, so those winters get thrown out.Source: NOAA Regional Climate Centers (ACIS). NWS co-op, airport, SNOTEL and RAWS networks
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We work out the 1 in 30 year low for each station. Those yearly coldest nights get run through an extreme value fit. It's the standard way of doing return periods, same math behind a hundred year flood.Method: Gumbel extreme value fit to annual minima
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We weight the stations by how much they look like your site. Closer counts for more, and so does matching elevation and a long record. A station 500 feet below you sitting next to a lake sees different winters than you do, so it counts for less. Then we take an average that a couple of oddball stations can't drag around. If the good stations are far off or don't agree with each other, we tell you the number is rough instead of pretending it isn't.Method: distance, elevation and record length weighting, Huber robust centre
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We read the lay of your land. Off a 100 foot resolution elevation model we measure how much of the ground around you sits lower, how far cold air has to travel before the ground drops 50 feet, and how closed in your horizon is. Cold air is heavy. It runs downhill and puddles up wherever it can't get out.Source: USGS / Mapzen elevation data
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You tell us what the stations can't know. That's question 2 up at the top. There's no public data anywhere that can fill it in for you.Source: you
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We match that up against what our plants have survived. Every variety we grow carries a known survival extreme, the coldest it's been seen to come through. We show you the ones that clear your number, then the ones that are within 5°F of it as worth a try.Source: our own records and our grower network
Tested against about 1,650 weather stations we held back, the estimate lands within 3.5°F half the time. We also hold the extreme to be colder than the average no matter what, because it can't come out warmer. That isn't physically possible.
Why we built this
We're a mission oriented company. Our mission is to increase food production capacity for localities in Montana and beyond, and we do that by inspiring folks to grow fruit, nut, and berry producing trees, shrubs, and vines.
This calculator isn't perfect and we're not going to pretend it is. But for what we're after, we think it's better than what's out there right now. If somebody plants a tree and it lives, they'll plant another one.
This is a beta. Treat the number as something to plan around, not a guarantee. Rootstock, snow cover, how young the tree is and wind exposure all move the real answer. If your ground is telling you something different than this page is, go with your ground. And let us know, because that's how this gets better.